What Your Watermaker Is Actually Telling You Five readings, and how to use them together, before you start replacing parts By Kalim Scharenguivel , Water Makers Australia. Published 6 September 2026. Why is my watermaker producing less water than it used to? Reduced output from a marine watermaker is more often caused by cold seawater, dirty pre-filters, a blocked seawater strainer, low membrane pressure, poor feed supply or air in the system than by a failed membrane. Before replacing any part, record five readings plus the seawater temperature and compare them against each other. A single reading rarely identifies the cause of the fault. The relationship between the readings usually does. The six things to record before you diagnose anything 01 Feed pressure. What the feed pump is delivering to the high-pressure pump, and the first place to look when readings become unstable. 02 Membrane pressure. The operating pressure applied across the reverse osmosis membrane. 03 Product flow. How much fresh water the system is actually making, in litres per hour. 04 Product TDS. Total dissolved solids in the product water, in parts per million, which indicates how well the membrane is rejecting salt. 05 Brine flow. The concentrate stream leaving the system, which shows what the water you aren’t drinking is doing. 06 Seawater temperature. The number that isn’t on your control panel and that influences every other reading on this list. Four of those are routine readings. Brine flow only needs to be measured accurately when you are commissioning the system or troubleshooting a flow or pressure problem. In normal operation, confirming a steady, unrestricted brine discharge is enough. Also record where the boat is operating, the condition of the pre-filters and seawater strainer, and anything unusual you can see or hear: air bubbles, pressure fluctuations, leaks, vibration or abnormal pump noise. Four of the six live on one plate: feed pressure, membrane pressure, product flow and TDS. The fifth, brine flow, you confirm at the discharge. The sixth, seawater temperature, is the one no panel will give you. Every few weeks I get a call that goes roughly the same way. Sometimes it’s about one of our systems. Just as often it’s a Spectra, Rainman, Schenker, Village Marine or something a previous owner built years ago. “My watermaker used to make 80 litres an hour. Now it only makes 60. Do I need a new membrane?” Maybe. But production alone doesn’t tell us that. A watermaker is constantly giving you clues about what’s happening inside it. The trick is knowing which readings matter and, more importantly, how they relate to each other. Understand that relationship and you can usually narrow a problem down to the feed side, high-pressure side, membrane, concentrate side or operating conditions before buying a single part. Start with a baseline The best reference for a watermaker is usually the same watermaker when it was working properly. Different systems use different membranes, pumps, recoveries, feed arrangements and operating pressures. Even two identical systems can produce different amounts of water when they’re operating in different seawater temperatures and salinities. Membrane data sheets are also based on controlled test conditions. For example, DuPont rates the FilmTec SW30-2540 at 700 US gallons per day, or about 2.6 m³/day, under test conditions of 800 psi, 25°C, 32,000 ppm NaCl and 8% recovery. FilmTec also specifies that permeate flow from an individual element may vary by ±20%. That’s a membrane test condition, not a promise that every watermaker containing that membrane will produce exactly the same amount under every operating condition. And even before differences in the boat, pump, plumbing, temperature and salinity are considered, two individual membranes of the same model don’t necessarily produce exactly the same flow. So instead of asking only: “Is my watermaker making its advertised litres per hour?” also ask: “What has changed compared with the last time it was working properly?” That’s often where the answer is. Membrane pressure doesn’t tell the whole story This is one of the most important things to understand about reverse osmosis. Seawater has osmotic pressure, a natural resistance that the applied pressure must overcome before useful freshwater production occurs. The amount of water passing through an RO membrane is related to its net driving pressure: the applied pressure available after osmotic pressure and other pressure effects are taken into account. FilmTec describes membrane water flow as proportional to the difference between applied pressure and osmotic pressure. That means a relatively modest reduction in membrane pressure can sometimes produce a much more noticeable reduction in freshwater output. It also means you shouldn’t become fixated on achieving a particular gauge number. Pressure is a means, not a target Pressure is a means of achieving the correct operating flow, not a target in itself. On Water Makers Australia systems , you increase membrane pressure only until either: the system reaches its rated product-water flow, or membrane pressure reaches 800 psi whichever happens first. You do not continue increasing pressure after rated production has been achieved, and you do not exceed 800 psi trying to compensate for cold water, high salinity or lower-than-expected production. The green band on the MAIN gauge stops at 800 psi and the red begins there. That is a limit, not a target. You stop at rated product flow or at 800 psi, whichever comes first. FilmTec’s seawater guidance follows the same underlying principle: colder water or higher salinity may require increased feed pressure to maintain output, but only within the system’s design limits. Warmer or lower-salinity water may allow the same production at lower pressure. Temperature can make a healthy watermaker look sick A surprising number of apparent watermaker faults are explained by seawater temperature rather than an actual failure. Cold water passes through an RO membrane more slowly. FilmTec gives a useful example: a 4°C reduction in feed-water temperature can reduce permeate flow by about 10%, even though nothing is wrong with the membrane. That’s why FilmTec recommends accounting for temperature when comparing membrane performance over time. As a practical guide for our systems, seawater around 10 to 15°C can reduce production by approximately 25 to 40% compared with more favourable conditions, while water around 20 to 25°C will generally be closer to rated output. That matters enormously on boats. If you commissioned your watermaker in warm summer water and then compare it with its output in winter, simply comparing litres per hour can send you looking for a fault that isn’t there. The opposite happens as well. A system can appear to have miraculously “recovered” when the boat moves into warmer water. There is another temperature effect worth knowing about. FilmTec notes that as temperature increases, permeate flow increases but salt passage also increases. So warmer seawater can give you more freshwater while also producing somewhat higher product-water TDS. That doesn’t automatically indicate membrane deterioration. What that looks like in practice A customer emailed me from an anchorage in northern Borneo. Sea temperature 30 to 32°C, high salinity, and his watermaker was reading high 300s to mid 400s ppm when he was used to seeing around 200. He wasn’t panicking. His words were that the water was good to drink, but he’d prefer it back in the 200 range. What was bothering him was the company he was in. Every other boat in that anchorage with a watermaker was seeing the same lift, and some of them had already replaced their membranes over it. So I asked the questions that actually separate the possibilities. Had it been like that since installation, or was the change gradual, or sudden? Did the rise track the salinity of the water he had moved into? And, most importantly, what was his production doing? That last question settled it. His output was still where it should be, at his normal operating pressure. High TDS with normal product flow, in water that is both unusually warm and unusually salty, is not the signature of a failing membrane. My view at the time was that if he moved into less salty water the reading would come back down on its own, and that only a permanent increase would point toward fouling. Three weeks later he wrote back. The TDS had settled into the mid 200s. He was cruising through that whole period, and he told me afterwards that the water temperature had changed as he travelled. His TDS had tracked it down. Nothing was replaced. Nothing was cleaned. The water changed, and the reading followed it. I don’t know what the boats around him concluded. Some of them had already bought replacement membranes. Whenever you’re comparing performance from different days, record the seawater temperature with the other readings. Without it, you’re missing part of the story. Salinity matters too Not all seawater is the same. Higher salinity means higher osmotic pressure. At the same applied membrane pressure, that reduces the net driving pressure available to move fresh water through the membrane. FilmTec’s technical guidance confirms that permeate flow falls as feedwater salinity rises because osmotic pressure increases and net driving pressure decreases. So a watermaker can produce less water in saltier water without anything being wrong. Lower-salinity water does the opposite. Move into an area influenced by rainfall or freshwater runoff and you may find the watermaker reaching normal product flow at considerably lower membrane pressure and producing very low-TDS water. That’s not a reason to keep increasing pressure until you reach the number you’re accustomed to seeing offshore. It’s telling you that the feed water has changed. The important combination is: temperature + salinity + pressure + flow not any one of those readings by itself. Feed pressure tells you what’s happening before the high-pressure pump When feed pressure is low or unstable, start looking upstream. Common causes include: dirty pre-filters a blocked seawater strainer a partly closed seacock a restricted intake excessive suction hose length or restrictive fittings an undersized intake an underperforming feed pump voltage drop at the feed pump air entering somewhere on the suction side Air is particularly deceptive. A system may still appear to run. The high-pressure pump may still build some pressure. You may even continue producing water. But the readings become unstable. Feed pressure moves around. Membrane pressure may fluctuate. Pump sound can change. Brine flow may become irregular and production falls. On a boat, the problem can also appear only while underway. If the system operates perfectly at anchor but loses feed pressure or becomes unstable while moving, intake aeration, turbulence or suction layout should immediately move up the list of suspects. “But my suction is below the waterline, so how can it be drawing air?” This comes up almost every time, and it’s a fair question. Our systems run a flooded suction. The feed pump sits below the waterline and is naturally supplied, so it never has to lift water. It follows, reasonably enough, that a leak below the waterline should weep seawater out rather than draw air in. Sitting still, that’s exactly right. And it’s worth knowing, because a weeping suction fitting below the waterline is a flooding risk before it’s ever a watermaker problem. Running, the margin is thinner than it looks. Three hundred millimetres of seawater above the pump gives you roughly 0.44 psi of static head. That is the entire cushion you’re working with. Once the pump is drawing, friction through the strainer, the hose, every bend and the seacock all subtract from it. A strainer half full of weed can consume that 0.44 psi on its own. When it does, the pressure at that point falls below atmospheric even though the fitting is underwater, and a small leak will pull air. That’s why the manual insists every suction-side fitting, strainer lid and threaded connection be airtight, why the suction hose should be short, direct and correctly sized, and why it warns that even a small leak can cause feed pressure loss, cavitation or loss of prime, especially while underway. Heeling, pitching and boat speed all shrink that margin further. Air also arrives without any leak at all: aerated water at the intake from hull turbulence or wave action, a high point in the suction run that traps air, or air left sitting in a filter housing after a cartridge change. So the search order is: strainer and pre-filters first, because a restriction is what creates the conditions for everything else. Then the strainer lid seal and suction fittings. Then intake position and any high points in the run. So: low or unstable feed pressure + unstable membrane pressure = investigate the feed side first. Don’t start with the membrane. Product flow tells you what the membrane is producing, not why Product flow is the number everyone notices first. It’s useful, but by itself it tells you almost nothing about why production has changed. Low product flow can result from: colder seawater higher salinity insufficient membrane pressure reduced feed supply air in the system dirty filters reduced high-pressure pump performance membrane fouling scaling membrane compaction membrane damage What separates those possibilities is everything else. If product flow has fallen but membrane pressure is normal, feed pressure is stable, brine is flowing normally and TDS remains good, reduced membrane permeability becomes more interesting, particularly once temperature and salinity have been accounted for. FilmTec specifically separates low flow with normal salt passage, low flow with high salt passage, and low flow with reduced salt passage because those different patterns point toward different causes. For example, FilmTec associates low flow with improved salt rejection with mechanisms such as membrane compaction, while some forms of organic fouling can also reduce both flow and salt passage. If product flow falls while feed pressure and membrane pressure are also falling, look at the hydraulic system first. If product flow falls when the seawater becomes significantly colder but the rest of the system remains stable, temperature may explain much or all of the difference. This is why replacing a membrane based on litres per hour alone is guesswork. Brine flow tells you what the rest of the water is doing Brine, or concentrate, is one of the most useful things to look at and one of the easiest to ignore. During normal operation, you don’t need to pull out a bucket and stopwatch every time you use the watermaker. You should, however, confirm that the brine discharge is steady and unrestricted. If you’re troubleshooting a performance problem, that’s when an actual brine-flow measurement becomes useful. Every litre entering a conventional seawater RO system has to leave as either product water or concentrate, so approximately: Feed flow = product flow + brine flow That’s just conservation of mass, and it’s a useful sanity check on your instruments. If the numbers don’t add up, one of the three is lying to you. If you’re measuring product and brine flow, recovery can be estimated as: Recovery = product flow ÷ (product flow + brine flow) For example, 3 L/min of product plus 9 L/min of brine gives about 12 L/min total flow and approximately 25% recovery. There isn’t one recovery percentage that should be applied to every marine watermaker. Follow the system and membrane manufacturer’s design limits. What matters diagnostically is the relationship between the flows. If product flow changes substantially but brine flow doesn’t, that tells you something different from both flows falling together. No brine flow is different Low or no brine flow is not something to keep operating through. It can indicate a closed or over-adjusted pressure valve, restricted brine hose, blocked discharge, poor feed supply, high-pressure pump problem or severe internal restriction. If brine flow disappears: Stop the system. Fully open the pressure-regulating needle valve. Confirm the brine discharge hose and outlet are unrestricted. Check feed pressure and feed flow. Do not operate the system at pressure again until brine flow is confirmed. The WMA troubleshooting procedure classifies low or no brine flow as a serious fault condition. TDS is not just a pass/fail number TDS, total dissolved solids, tells you how much dissolved ionic material is present in the product water. In a seawater RO system, it’s a very useful indication of how effectively the membrane system is rejecting salt. But, like product flow, don’t read it in isolation. A TDS reading of 250 ppm can mean very different things depending on whether the system is producing its normal flow at normal pressure or struggling to make half its usual output. And TDS is not a complete water-safety test. TDS is not a safety test A low TDS reading does not prove that water is microbiologically safe, nor does it confirm that the vessel’s tank, hoses or distribution system are sanitary. High TDS immediately after startup Don’t judge the membrane from the first water coming out of the product line. After a system has been sitting idle, product-water TDS may initially be elevated. After pickling, cleaning or membrane replacement, storage or cleaning solution may also need to be completely flushed from the system. Start with product water directed to TEST and allow the system to stabilise. On Water Makers Australia systems, product water should not be diverted to the vessel’s tank until the TDS reading is stable and below 500 ppm, and the water has no abnormal taste, smell or appearance. There is deliberately no fixed “30 seconds and you’re good” rule. New membranes are different FilmTec specifies that permeate produced during the first hour of operation of a new SW30 element should be discarded. FilmTec also notes that salt rejection can continue improving during the first few hours or days of operation before performance fully stabilises. So the TDS reading at exactly the one-hour mark shouldn’t necessarily be treated as the membrane’s final long-term baseline. Sometimes the instrument is the fault Before diagnosing an expensive component, ask one simple question: Does the reading itself make sense? Meters and gauges can fail too. If a TDS reading seems completely inconsistent with the way the system is behaving, verify it with a clean handheld meter. If a flow meter seems questionable, measure the outlet into a container for a known period. If a pressure reading suddenly changes while every other operating characteristic remains exactly the same, consider the gauge as part of the diagnosis. I had a call from the owner of another brand of system whose watermaker was reading high TDS. Before he rang me, the sales rep he’d been dealing with had worked through what I’d call credit card troubleshooting: guess at the cause, replace a component, see whether it helps, and if it doesn’t, guess again and replace something else. He talked me through everything that had already been swapped. Then I asked him one question. Had he cross-checked that TDS reading against a second meter? He hadn’t. Nobody had suggested it. He borrowed a calibrated meter from another yachtie and rang me back the next day. The water was fine. It had been fine the whole time. The only thing wrong with that watermaker was the meter telling him something was wrong with it. Every part that had been replaced up to that point was replaced to fix a problem that didn’t exist. A bad instrument can send you looking for a fault that isn’t there, and it will happily let you spend money on the way. Read the pattern, not the symptom This is where the readings become genuinely useful. Watermaker diagnostic table Marine watermaker symptoms, what each pattern of readings suggests, and where to look first What you see What it suggests Where I’d look first Product flow down, TDS still good Reduced flux, not necessarily membrane failure Cold water, higher salinity, reduced feed flow, low membrane pressure, dirty filters, early fouling or compaction Product flow down, membrane pressure normal, with similar temperature and salinity Membrane permeability may have dropped Feed and brine flow first, then fouling, scaling or compaction Product flow down and TDS up Requires closer investigation Low membrane pressure, poor feed supply, air, fouling/scaling, membrane seals, incorrect installation or damage Membrane pressure won’t build normally Usually hydraulic or mechanical before it is a membrane diagnosis Needle valve too far open, low feed pressure, air, HP pump performance, pressure-relief valve bypassing, high-pressure leak, motor supply or pressure gauge Feed pressure low or unstable Feed-supply problem Pre-filters, strainer, seacock, intake restriction, suction leak, feed-pump priming/performance, voltage or pressure gauge Membrane pressure rises suddenly or cannot be controlled A restriction or pressure-control problem Needle valve too far closed, restricted brine discharge, restricted or back-pressured product line, or incorrect plumbing. Reduce pressure and investigate More pressure is gradually required over time to maintain the same output, under comparable temperature and salinity Increasing hydraulic resistance or reduced membrane performance Confirm filters, feed supply and flow first, then investigate fouling or scaling Low or no brine flow Serious flow restriction or supply problem Stop. Open the needle valve fully and check brine path, feed supply and HP pump flow before repressurising Pressure relief valve discharging System pressure or relief system requires investigation Reduce pressure immediately. Check needle valve, brine restriction, indicated pressure and relief-valve condition Product flow and TDS both higher than normal Possible loss of membrane integrity or rejection Oxidation or chlorine damage, membrane leak, O-ring or seal leak, or product-tube damage Normal product flow reached at unusually low pressure with very low TDS Lower-salinity feed water Usually not a fault. Don’t increase pressure simply to reach your normal offshore number High TDS during startup System may not yet have stabilised Keep product directed to TEST and reassess once pressure, flow and TDS are stable One reading makes no sense compared with everything else Possible instrumentation problem Verify the gauge, flow meter or TDS meter before replacing system components None of that is guesswork on my part. FilmTec’s own troubleshooting guidance is built the same way, on combinations rather than single numbers, and it is particularly clear about one of them: higher-than-normal permeate flow together with significantly increased salt passage points to oxidation damage, including free chlorine and other oxidising chemicals, or to a membrane, O-ring or product-tube leak. That combination is worth committing to memory, because it is the one pattern on that table that cleaning will not fix. A sudden pressure rise and a gradual pressure increase aren’t the same thing This distinction is important. If membrane pressure suddenly rises, rises rapidly or becomes difficult to control, think restriction or pressure control first. Immediately open the pressure-regulating needle valve to reduce pressure, then investigate: needle valve closed too far kinked or restricted brine hose blocked brine outlet restricted or back-pressured product-water line incorrect plumbing pressure-control or relief-valve problem Don’t keep running the system and try to compensate around it. A different pattern is when, over weeks or months, you find that more pressure is required to maintain the same product flow under otherwise similar conditions. Once temperature, salinity, feed supply, filters and instrumentation have been accounted for, that trend can be useful evidence of increasing membrane resistance from fouling or scaling. FilmTec makes a similar distinction by treating absolute operating pressure and differential pressure through the membrane system as separate diagnostic parameters. Increasing differential pressure is an important indicator of fouling or restriction in larger RO systems. Most small marine systems don’t measure pressure on both sides of the membrane vessel, so you won’t normally have a true differential-pressure reading. That’s another reason to compare the whole pattern rather than relying on the pressure gauge alone. Product-water backpressure matters Product water should always have a free, unrestricted path away from the membrane. 5 psi is the limit FilmTec warns that if permeate pressure exceeds concentrate pressure by more than 5 psi / 0.3 bar, mechanical membrane damage can occur. That is why TEST and TANK product lines should remain unrestricted and why a blocked or pressurised product-water path should never be treated as harmless. If pressure behaviour changes unexpectedly, check both the brine side and product-water side. Chlorine, and the carbon filter you can’t inspect Backpressure is mechanical damage. Chlorine is chemical damage, and it’s the one that catches people out because it’s invisible until the performance data shows it. FilmTec gives the SW30 free-chlorine tolerance as less than 0.1 ppm, and specifically recommends removing residual free chlorine by pretreatment before the feed water reaches the membrane, because oxidation can cause premature membrane failure. Read that as it’s meant. It isn’t a concentration you can treat as safe for continuous exposure with a bit of margin in hand. The entire job of the carbon stage is to take the chlorine out upstream. On Water Makers Australia systems, the activated-carbon flush cartridge is what protects the membrane from chlorine in the vessel’s fresh water supply. It is replaced every six months, or sooner as required, and it is never bypassed. If you’re running another system, follow its manufacturer’s interval. Twenty micron, carbon, five micron. The two sediment stages show you when they are dirty. The carbon stage in the middle is the one that gives you nothing to look at. That protection matters most during fresh water flushing, which is exactly when town or dock water is being deliberately pushed through the membrane. How do you know when the carbon cartridge is spent? You can’t tell by looking at it, and that’s the problem. A carbon cartridge gives you no reliable visual indication of its remaining chlorine-removal capacity. It can look perfectly normal while its ability to remove chlorine is exhausted, and chlorine breakthrough may occur without an obvious change in appearance or flow. So there are two separate rules, and you need both. The preventative rule is elapsed time. Replace the cartridge at the specified interval regardless of how it looks or how little you think you’ve used it. That interval is deliberately conservative, because the failure is invisible and the damage is permanent. The verification is a free-chlorine test downstream of the cartridge, taken while the flush water is actually flowing. Use a low-range chlorine test capable of reliably detecting below 0.1 ppm. Don’t assume an ordinary pool strip is sensitive enough: pool testing is designed to resolve concentrations far higher than the level that matters to a membrane, and a strip reading “zero” may still be sitting above what you want reaching your element. Static water in the housing won’t tell you anything useful, so run the flush and sample downstream of the carbon filter. Any confirmed free-chlorine breakthrough means the cartridge should be replaced, whatever the calendar says. If you’re on town water in a marina, particularly somewhere that shock-chlorinates, that test is worth doing between scheduled changes. And note how this connects back to the table above. Higher-than-normal product flow together with significantly increased TDS is one of the recognised signatures of oxidation damage. By the time you can see it in the readings, the damage is already done. The carbon filter is the part of the system where that outcome is actually decided. Don’t condemn the membrane until you’ve eliminated the easy things Membranes absolutely can foul, scale, compact, oxidise or become physically damaged. They just aren’t the only reason production falls. Before deciding the membrane is finished, I want to know: Is the seawater unusually cold? Has the operating location or salinity changed? Is the seawater strainer clean? Are the pre-filters clean? Is the feed pump properly primed? Is feed pressure stable? Is there air in the system? Is membrane pressure normal and controllable? Is the brine discharge steady and unrestricted? Is the product-water line unrestricted? Is the product flow measurement accurate? Is the TDS meter telling the truth? Is the activated-carbon flush cartridge within its service life? Has anything recently been installed, serviced or changed? Only after those questions have been answered do fouling, scaling, compaction or membrane damage move toward the top of the list. That order isn’t arbitrary, and it isn’t just my preference. The WMA troubleshooting procedure deliberately puts membrane condition last, and the membrane manufacturers say the same thing: check pretreatment, pressure control and recovery before you conclude the element is the problem. That’s not because membranes never fail. It’s because changing one is an expensive way to discover that the actual problem was a blocked strainer. Know when to stop Troubleshooting doesn’t mean continuing to run the watermaker while something obviously isn’t right. Stop operation if you have: low or unstable feed pressure a cavitating or abnormally noisy high-pressure pump membrane pressure rising unexpectedly or becoming uncontrollable no brine discharge a pressure-relief valve discharging during normal operation a high-pressure leak electrical overheating or abnormal electrical behaviour high or unstable TDS that does not settle after normal stabilisation abnormal behaviour immediately following installation or maintenance Depressurise the system before inspecting high-pressure components and never loosen high-pressure fittings while the system is pressurised. The most useful troubleshooting tool is a logbook You don’t need to turn every watermaker run into a laboratory exercise. But when the system is working properly, establish a baseline. For routine operation, useful information to record includes: Date | Location | Seawater temperature | Feed pressure | Membrane pressure | Product flow | TDS | Run time | Notes During the run, visually confirm that the brine discharge is steady and unrestricted. You don’t need to measure brine flow every session. Measure it during commissioning to establish system performance, and again when you’re troubleshooting a pressure, flow or production problem and need the additional information. Industrial RO plants do a version of this properly, normalising every reading back to standard conditions so that today’s performance can be compared honestly against commissioning day. You don’t need to go that far. For a small marine watermaker, a simple operating log with the temperature written next to the numbers gives you most of the same practical benefit without turning every run into an engineering exercise. Six months later, that baseline can be worth far more than trying to remember whether the system “used to make about 80 litres an hour”. Before you call someone, get the numbers If your watermaker isn’t behaving normally, don’t start the conversation with: “I think my membrane is gone.” Start with: “Feed pressure is X, membrane pressure is Y, product flow is Z, TDS is A, the seawater is B°C, and the brine discharge is steady.” If you’re troubleshooting a significant production or pressure problem, measure the brine flow as well. Then add: “The filters and strainer are clean, there are no visible air bubbles, and this is what the same system used to do under similar conditions.” Now we have something useful. With those readings in hand, most faults become much easier to narrow down. And quite often, the membrane everyone was ready to replace turns out to have been telling you there was nothing wrong with it in the first place. About the author Kalim Scharenguivel is the founder of Water Makers Australia, designing and building marine desalination systems in Sydney since 2020. He works directly with boat owners, installers and marine businesses across Australia and New Zealand, and spends a fair part of most weeks helping diagnose watermaker faults, including plenty of systems he didn’t build. Water Makers Australia designs, builds and supports serviceable marine watermakers from 80 to 240 litres per hour , with parts and technical support held locally. www.watermakers.com.au +61 2 8317 1755 info@watermakers.com.au